Chapter One Brasserie
Editorial
There's something about small restaurants that seems to entice me so much more than big, bustling eateries. Granted the larger venues may boast more “atmospheric” (if that's what you call 100 people eating and talking over each other), but I'd much rather enjoy a meal in absolute silence and risk hearing my own fork drop to the floor. With seating for only 40 guests, Chapter One Brasserie in the heart of Subiaco is an intimate little place brimming with rustic European charm. It is family owned and operated by Jason and Hayley Walker, with Jason running the show in the kitchen and Hayley spinning her magic at the front of house. Their collaborated experience ensures diners are treated to simple, fresh seasonal food served with a warm, genuine smile.
Chapter One's cuisine has a subtle French influence, evident in dishes like the smoked duck, apple, walnut and foie gras salad, and the braised rabbit and wild mushroom pie with parsnip puree and sage jus. One piece of advice, though: if you're after frou-frou fare (food that looks like a work of art, but is barely edible), you won't find it here. In keeping with Chapter One's European style, servings are simple and uncomplicated, letting the flavours and textures of the food impress the diner rather than pretty plates. Speaking of flavour, the Chapter One tasting plate offers a range of Jason's daily creations - perfect for those who like to tickle their tastebuds before their main meal. And if, like me, you were a huge fan of Subiaco's much-loved Alto's restaurant (now defunct), you'll be happy to know Jason's time there as head chef inspired him to include one of the restaurant's best-selling dishes. The blue manna crab, tomato sugo and angel hair pasta dish is so deliciously simple, it's almost impossible to choose anything else!
Karen Bilsby, December 2008
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