The Table
Editorial
The very epitome of smart casual, The Table is a laid back and convivial restaurant that makes up for its small but welcoming street presence with some big flavours. Following Melbourne’s recent awakening to the nuances of Mexican cuisine, The Table ventures a little further south of the border, incorporating Central and South American flavours.
Chef James Blackman spent seven years working for an American billionaire, spending several of them on his Caribbean island estate. It is this experience that infuses the food at The Table, backed by Blackman’s classic early training at Melbourne restaurants such as The Court House, Il Solito Posto and Jacques Reymond. The namesake table also takes pride of place in the restaurant – a reminder of Blackman’s childhood dining experiences that inspired his passion for cooking.
Start with kingfish ceviche cured in lime and mescal – its simplicity emboldened with a tomato and finger lime salsa, and blue corn tortillas. Exotic flavours also enliven mains such as blackened bay snapper with roasted baby fennel, cauliflower purée and a salad of apple, wild fig and black garlic. The beef porterhouse is given firey edge by being rubbed with char-grilled chipotle chilli. Finish with fig, apple and date compote served with thyme and tequila caramel foam, and roasted apple ice cream. The restaurant’s signature flourless chilli and chocolate cake is memorable finale that enjoys Mexican vanilla ice cream and chilli almond praline.
The wine list is small but concise, and tequila lovers will appreciate the range of quality tequilas on offer. Staff are switched on, welcoming and informed, ensuring that a night at The Table is one of original tastes and excellent service.
Angela Costanzo, February 2011
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