Maze Grill
Editorial
Gordon Ramsey’s debut on the Australian restaurant scene comes in the form of maze Melbourne, the latest addition to the global Ramsey juggernaut. Its ugly Clarendon Street outlook is discreetly screened behind soft textured curtains while high-ceilings, a big-hotel feel, wall mural of birds and branches, impressive natural-textured cane light fittings and sliding panels grab attention. Those expecting foul-mouthed kitchen staff, small plates and high prices will be disappointed. With long-term Ramsay offsider, New Zealander Josh Emett, at the helm, kitchen antics are kept to a minimum and while the focus is on the mix and match share plate school of dining (with three to four plates recommended per person as an equivalent to two courses), prices are reasonable. The menu isn’t flashy and experimental, but locally-focused and offers solid, well-executed fare that has broad appeal.
Starters might include marinated beetroot with goat's curd, Cabernet Sauvignon vinaigrette and toasted pine nuts or southern rock lobster with Jerusalem artichoke veloute and green beans. Larger items such as coral trout wrapped in chicken skin with fennel and a lemon thyme consomme, lamb cannon and shoulder with cauliflower puree, anchovies and stinging nettles and ox “tongue and cheek” with caper and raisin, carrots and horseradish pomme puree display both skill and a combination of interesting flavours. Desserts feature a nod to an Australian classic with a deconstructed lamington sided by coconut sorbet and rosella jam, while an exotic fruit vacherin with passionfruit and banana sorbet or watermelon soup with Pimms, mint foam and blood orange sorbet offer a light and fruity finish. In the hands of The Age Good Food Guide sommelier of the year Lincoln Riley (ex-Taxi), the wine list is expensive but broad, interesting and well-matched.
Angela Costanzo, June 2010
User Feedback
Hilary Hahn
August 05, 2010
Congratulations on the food which was fabulous and the wine guy (ex The Graham, Lincoln wasn't in). Sadly the balance of the service was robotic and unwelcoming and as inner city residents who eat out at least 3 times per week we felt like strangers in a strange land.
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