The Argo
Editorial
When The Argo changed hands in 2007 it received a bit of a makeover - but one that a traditional backstreet pub can be proud of. Sure, the place has been spruced up a bit, but it's not slick, loud or alienating. Instead it's understated, yet modern and inviting. The bar is still the sort of place where you can order a version of the humble mixed grill or a schnitzel without any hint of shame, or perhaps go for a wood-fired pizza with your boutique beer in the courtyard. It's definitely in the restaurant proper, however, where the real action is.
Here lies sophisticated bistro dining. The surrounds are minimalist and tranquil, the food, contemporary, innovative but not fussy. This modern Australian restaurant menu is small but varied, with seafood a stand out. Interesting combinations of flavours also make themselves felt in the meat dishes - you may go for duck teamed with fondant potato, baby leeks and spiced cumquat, or rabbit loin with a mushroom farce, caramelised onion and caper and thyme jus. The desserts are excellent and certainly worth making room for. Owner Damien Hobday also owns nearby Vin Cellar, and his influence shows in the extensive and complementary wine list.
Angela Costanzo, July 2008
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