Bistro Guillaume
Editorial
Here's the recipe - take a well respected name, mix in a busy location and add Melbourne's dining set. Guillaume Brahimi, one of Sydney's best chefs, has opened Bistro Guillaume, making a welcome addition to the already lively eating scene at Crown. It's located on the promenade, with a large downstairs bar that's open during the evenings. The restaurant can only be described as pretty, with its pale colours and light-shades that look like fashionable skirts suspended from the low ceiling. The tables in the main area are dressed in white while those nearer to the promenade are bare marble-topped tables.
As the name suggests, the food is classic bistro fare. The menu contains all the usual suspects - a terrine of the day, snails from the Hunter Valley, oysters, onion soup, steak tartare and confit of duck nicely accompanied by Brussel sprouts. The char-grilled yellow fin tuna came with a notably good ratatouille but the significant charred flavour rather overpowered the tuna for me. Some more interesting dishes include the roast Barossa chicken and the Flinders lamb for two. There is a daily plat du jour - among them is tripe on Monday, minute steak on Tuesday, bouillabaisse on Friday. The wine list is a stupendous collection, mostly at prices so high they are quite sobering. Some of the French Burgundies and drops from Bordeaux have price tags that read like a year far into the future. Even the wines by the glass are pricey. Oh well, we should all have an alcohol-free day or two a week - but it could be fun to blow the budget just for once.
Rita Erlich, April 2008
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