Colonel Tan's
Editorial
Most people traipse up the imposing stairs at Revolver to listen to a DJ or band, to observe the scene with a drink in hand. Colonel Tan's is ostensibly serving a hungry bar crowd down the back of the vast room, though the Thai food is so good you'd be advised to forsake alternatives and make eating your only reason for visiting.
Though not a hidden secret, Colonel Tan's lack of street frontage means it's a different type of crowd to other street-fronting restaurants on Chapel Street. The Thai food here has an adventurous streak befitting its location and it's certainly not what you'd expect inside a lounge/bar/nightclub.
It's the sort place where the ubiquitous musical backbeat and social chatter will inform your appreciation of galangal and lemon grass. You'll fit in around the bar and dance space alike the vintage formica tables you'll eat from.
You can order a Green Curry (a traditional favourite to judge any Thai restaurant by), but here it comes with Rice and Salted Egg Salad. It's not your standard by the numbers Thai, it does the simple things with an additional flourish.
It's the little extras and twists that tempt you to try something different. Good examples of this include the Yellow Fish Curry with Green Papaya, Rice and Shredded Omelette or the Betel Leaf Salad with Snapper, Ginger, Chilli and Lime. Yum.
Similarly the menu extends to accommodate the clientele who must have a burger, and it does so by offering a Chicken and Kaffir Lime Burger with Avocado sauce.
One dessert option (Coconut Custard and Seasonal Ice Cream) suggests moving back to the bar or dance floor are driving priorities for most once they've re-fuelled. Lingering longer or eating here as a stop in itself might bring equal rewards.
Bruce Thurlow, September 2010
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