Mahjong Black
Editorial
Coyly tucked among office buildings, Mahjong Black makes up for its inconspicuous frontage with a dramatic statement inside. The décor is arresting with dramatic black, white and silver tones creating a luxurious setting. While the area seems quite formal, dining here is comfortable, although those familiar with sister restaurant Mahjong will find this quite a different food experience. The St Kilda restaurant focuses on yum cha, while its city sibling has a very different personality.
Mahjong Black offers a sophisticated, elegant approach to Cantonese cuisine. As the owners explain, it's not a Chinese restaurant, it's a restaurant that serves Chinese cuisine. It has a sleek upmarket feel and a succinct menu that selects the jewels of Cantonese dining, and serves them with contemporary flair.
Try a classic dish such as perfectly executed Peking duck to start, or the sweet and plump sugar cane prawns. Mains such as stir fried Szechuan king prawns or sliced barbecue pork and roast pork belly are enhanced by intensely flavoured sauces that, in less polished circumstances, would have you licking the plate. Fruit-based desserts finish the meal with light flavours, or for those who enjoy richer flavours, the Triple Black is a trio of nutty sesame creations. Glutinous rice balls filled with finely milled black sesame flank black sesame ice cream and glossy black sesame paste as an artfully presented dish.
Mahjong Black offers sexy cosmopolitan dining with quietly tempered elegance that is a world away from the more familiar, raucous Chinese dining experience.
Angela Costanzo, November 2010
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