Izakaya Den
Editorial
Izakaya Den is Verge's funkier, punkier younger sister, bristling with noise and energy. A huge mirror behind the communal table at the back gives the illusion of a much larger space, while a long stretch of seating behind the bar provides the best vantage point for the grill. There are also high tables and low stools for smaller groups who want to spend the night sharing food and conversation.
The menu features about 30 small items, from salty, deep fried chestnuts and sweet corn 'kaki-age', which go perfectly with a cold Kirin or two, to larger cold and hot dishes ideal for sharing. There are some sushi and sashimi items on offer, such as the delicious spicy tuna tataki, but the most traditional izakaya dishes come from the grill. Watch the chef cook up unusual specialties like marinated octopus, ox tongue with spring onion or jumbo quail with sansho pepper. Sakata crumbed prawns with citrus mayonnaise, crunchy persimmon and green bean salad and the Asian delicacy char-grilled kingfish head are also stand-out dishes.
The drinks list is an impressive, scroll-like affair that features an excellent range of sake, shochu, Japanese beers and an all-Victorian wine list. While exquisitely presented, the dishes here are small and can add up when making a meal of it. Try visiting at lunchtime where the set menu for $18 is less of a blow to the wallet.
Angela Costanzo, July 2010
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