Ginza Teppanyaki
Editorial
“Yakiniku” in the broad sense translates to “grilled meat dishes”, at 48 Unley Road, it potentially means “party, party, party”. Yes, this is a sedate Japanese restaurant up-front: simple lines, minimal contemporary decor, even a mounted LCD TV screen. Verrry comfortable, lush mocha upholstered chairs are offered as well as more traditional tatami seating. Total window frontage affords views of passers-by, but for the most action take yourself out back. In what has been a somewhat un-utilised space in this restaurant’s past, the smart folk at Ginza have made a rear dining area. Here timber decking retains an original backyard feel, but individual wooden tables are now furnished with hotplates and gas burners. Summon a hoard of friends, order a gaggle of goodies and away you go. It is not cheap, but heck is it fun.
This is gourmet barbecuing at its best. An eye fillet of Wagyu comes at a shy fifty dollars. If that doesn’t suit, you can grill the beast’s rump, tongue or “deckle”. Snags? There are porkers imported from Japan and, more surprisingly, German cheese kranskies. The latter is not expected on a Japanese menu but hey, when in Rome…? On the main drawcard, octopus balls delight as cloud-like puffs of cephalopod heaven and compensate for over-grilled rings of squid. Reassuringly there is also edamame. What fun it is sucking the peas from their deliciously salted pods. Ultimately, visit Ginza for chef Aki Owa’s egg custard. The smokiness of its shiitakes challenges you to put your fork down after every scoop.
Roz Taylor, June 2010
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