Caterina's Cucina E Bar
Editorial
Let's do lunch. And if we're going to do it, let's do it properly and go to Caterina's Cucina for a hearty Italian-style feast. This basement restaurant is now 14 years old and it continues to dish up a serious lunch. The large dining room boasts a considerable bar to house plenty of wine and the reproductions of Italian food paintings give insight into your future meal. The effect is warmly professional and the tone is set by Caterina Borsato herself who keeps a sharp eye on everything while cordially greeting her guests. This place is favoured by the city suits about town, but there's nothing macho about it - anyone with a decent appetite should feel at home at Caterina's.
The menu is fairly hefty, with lots of delectable favourites in the form of carpaccio, pasta and risotto to name a few. The calamari fritti are deliciously soft and herby and come served with rocket and treviso. Braised lamb with horseradish is tender and satisfying, but the other specials are equally tempting and are well worth a ponder. The waiters are notably smooth, combining genuine friendliness with thorough knowledge of the menu. The wine list is serious, too, including some excellent imports and a good range of wines by the glass. Since you're not likely to be driving - parking on city streets is limited - treat yourself to one of the fine Victorian muscats, or perhaps some Tuscan Vin Santo to finish.
Rita Erlich, May 2008
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