Arintji
Editorial
There are few names in local high-end hospitality more esteemed than Jacques Reymond. The admired and multiply awarded chef opened his second restaurant, and very first bar, in 2003.
Since its opening, no one disputed that the place had an easy charm founded in good service and comfortable, chic design. Some critics and diners, however, were not so engaged by the food.
This was to the chagrin of foodies and well-to-do winos. Arintji, after all, saw the great chef of Windsor make a move to the inner-city and a relatively early move to beautifully executed small plates. The quality of the tapas, however, bobbed up and down as though here were a sous-vide tsunami. Some also complained that the wine list lacked an innovative edge.
While we love to complain in the nation's most gastronomic city, we also love a come-back. Reymond's protegees and bar staff were again wowing the crowds by late 2008. Whereupon, Reymond promptly sold the lot.
The stylish joint is now in the custody of new owners. They've successfully refocused their ambition and are catering to a slightly different need. Things are still stylish; how could they not be in a well-designed space with commanding views of the Yarra? But, things are a bit more casual.
There's certainly some vestigial Reymond in the small plates, but the place feels less like culinary church. In short, Arintji delivers a chic, Fed Square version of Melbourne's best resto-bars.
SM King, Citysearch
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