Antica Gelateria del Corso
Editorial
You can be excused for thinking that you are in Milan. Located in the Italian fashion belt of Collins Street, Antica Gelateria del Corso, designed by Maddison Architects, has all the style and finesse of a well-heeled fashionista. Downstairs is a gelataria displaying a palette of 21 pastel gelati with names like Panna Excelsior (cream with wafer biscuits). There is a small eating area styled with a mosaic floor and marble bench tops. Upstairs is a larger informal dining area with a wall feature of San Bitter bottles; a nod to Nestle, the owners of the Antica brand both here and in Milan.
An a la carte menu is available daily, and for dinner Wednesday to Friday. Chef Rosemaree Arceri brings nostalgia to this menu, cooking dishes like her Nonna used to make. The orecchiette in a veal, tomato, mushroom, olive and rosemary ragu is straight from the home country as is the linguini in a broad bean, pea and white wine reduction. The chickpea pancake is equally good. Fresh panini are more Italian street fare (try the prosciutto, gorgonzola and rocket), as are the pizzas. Biaggio Landolfi (formerly of Brunetti's) creates the deliciously good pastries.
Fiona Symington, May 2006
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