Koots Salle à Manger
Editorial
The name Koots gives no hint to what this restaurant is like. From that name, who would imagine that something small, chic and very French could be found within its midst? But there it is, on the main road, in a small shopping strip, across the road from the railway station, and only metres from the railway crossing. However, the other restaurants and food stores nearby make this area a nice foodie nook. Koots itself is a smart, cosy restaurant where the space is dominated by a large service bar behind which are shelves displaying a tempting array of bottles. During the day and on summer evenings, light floods in from the big windows that look on to the street; however, if you are after a little alfresco dining, head for the attractive courtyard.
The small menu provides French food that is modern and light, full of flavour and attractively presented. Think of a roasted beetroot salad with green beans, zucchini flower and goat's curd to start, or from the prix-fixe lunch menu, a tomato salad topped with slices of rare tuna, surrounded by droplets of basil oil. Seasonally changing main courses include steaks and a couple of fish dishes, as well as a dish suitable for vegetarians. Seafood is also well handled here. At lunch there's the option of a two or three-course menu, where a limited choice - say a salad or soup to start, a fish dish or a risotto to follow - is of high quality with portion sizes suitable for lunch. The wine list includes some great choices by the glass, or you may bring your own bottle for a corkage fee.
Rita Erlich, December 2008
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