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The Undertaker

places|vic|hawthorn|the%20undertaker
The sort of panache, and food, usually reserved for inner city locales.

Editorial


This business may have borrowed its name from the premises' previous role. There is, however, little that is grave within this Hawthorn haunt. Aside from one or two decorations on the wall that look like they're stolen from a tasteful mausoleum.

Local residents appreciated this resurrection in 2005. This was a sleek, well-conceived departure for an area rich in mumsy cafes and boutique baby stores.

The self-conscious chic of this noble establishment local might not cut it a few kilometres to the west. That doesn't matter. The Undertaker does its best to deliver on a solemn promise. To wit: to provide a decent neighbourhood watering hole.

At the time of writing, the much loved local is undergoing a few changes. The downstairs bar, The Social, will switch its emphasis to wine and offer posh, single origin coffee. This shouldn't mean that the faithful can't read from the joint's beer bible.

Upstairs, it seems, things are taking a more formal turn. The Dining Room that once fused bar and restaurant will welcome the direction of Melbourne mega-watt chef Paul Wilson and begin to specialise in seafood.

Changes may be afoot. We can be certain, however, that this successful business won't turn is back on local bodies in need of libation.

SM King, March 2010

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DP
May 20, 2009


Decadent! This is one bar where you can have a quality, relaxing drink in smooth surrounds. Love it.

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