Oyster Bar & Grill, Albert Park Hotel
Editorial
The Albert Park Hotel has been around for 125 years, benefitting from a major art deco facelift about 70 years ago. Inside, the contemporary fit-out pays tribute to its age – check out those floral carpets! In the bistro, the tables are bare, the seats are moulded and the atmosphere is informal. The bars are busy, and on a warm day or evening, there’s also drinking at pavement tables. Attracting hordes of Melbourne locals, the hotel enables drinking and eating at all levels – from good bar food to smart bistro fare, from a brilliant cocktail collection to a great wine list. The mood throughout is convivial.
Beginning with a foundation of quality ingredients, chef Cath Kalka’s food is imaginative, but tastes unfussy. The seared scallops on pea puree are beautifully cooked, with only a hint of truffle oil so the aromas are more complex but the flavour of the scallop shines. The whole baby flounder, deep-fried and crispy-edged, and topped with a green mango salad, is divine. And did we mention the salmon, pink-centred and juicy, on a bed of eggplant puree with mint leaves and lime, and a spicy fried egg? There are more conventional dishes, too, for those who prefer a quality steak or lamb. The menu changes monthly and includes all the share plates and small dishes that are available in the bar. The drinks list is worth a visit too. Terrific beers, an outstanding cocktail list and a range of gorgeous wines are available at price points that mean you can enjoy a drink, whatever your budget. If only more pubs were like this.
Rita Erlich, December 2008
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