The Korean Restaurant
Editorial
Kimchi, a spicy, pickled and fermented cabbage dish, is said to contain the Korean spirit. In the past, women used to prepare it and store it in underground jars as a substitute for fresh vegetables during winter. At the Korean Restaurant, the chefs prepare it every two months: slicing and brining Chinese cabbage, spicing the mix with red chilli, garlic, ginger, sugar and fish sauce, and leaving it to slowly mature while the flavours ripen. It’s hot, spicy and rich, with an intriguing and delicious fermented aftertaste and it’s one of the most volcanic tastes in town.
Hence the small portions that come as an accompaniment to such traditional Korean dishes as bibimpab and bulgogi; beautifully tender sesame seed and salt-coated pieces of calamari, and barbecued pork belly with cabbage and pea salad. Half a century of Japanese occupation of Korea is evident in the restaurant’s offering of miso soup, tempura, kimbab (sushi), udon noodles and a bento box-like selection of assorted small tastes. But the special attraction that keeps locals coming back to this small, fairly basic suburban eatery is the barbecue dishes, with menu items like duck, shredded beef and spare ribs along with the sparkling smiles and service.
Graeme Phillips, January 2007
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