Fee & Me
Editorial
The entrance hall to this tastefully refurbished gentleman's colonial townhouse, is panelled with national and state dining and wine list awards accumulated over almost two decades, a proud testament to the restaurant's longevity and record of fine dining. Dining here continues to provide a standard of excellence few others can match. Service is informed, prompt and discreet, there's an extensive and reasonably priced international wine menu with a large by-the-glass selection and chef/owner Fiona Hoskins presents refined classical food with some brilliant innovative tweaks and flourishes, served in the formal atmosphere of three old-world state rooms.
Abalone, crayfish, Highland venison, hare and seasonal black truffles often feature prominently, balanced by such light touches as Ocean tout tartare in tomato and basil or layered watermelon and tomato salad on menus uniquely constructed so that the more courses you have, the cheaper each becomes. Bread is baked in house fresh for each session and the hare pie uniquely topped with soufflé has become a classic. Dining here is an eminently satisfying experience at all levels and, while it sits unashamedly at the market's top end, it's little wonder that this has long been the restaurant of choice as much for corporate groups and the local establishment as it is for romantic tete-a-tete twosomes.
Graham Phillips, July 2008
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