Meadowbank Estate
Editorial
Ancient Oregon beams, rough-saw timbers and soaring glass walls frame bucolic views over acres of vines and olive groves to the oyster farms of the Pittwater, making this one of the state's most picturesque and relaxing dining and wine tasting settings. Upstairs a magnificent inlaid floor tells, as it were, the “flawed” history of Tasmanian wine and will soon also accommodate a collection of Australia's oldest-known bottles of wine produced from Tasmania's first vineyard circa 1840. However, despite these lofty drawcards, it's downstairs where the action is.
Meadowbank was one of the first of Tasmania's modern vineyards and the wines are still among Tasmania's best. Chef Simon West's food undoubtedly ranks among the very top in innovation, style and quality. His seasonal menus consist of entree-sized dishes which allow diners to graze their way through such things as local oysters and scallops in a variety of guises; lamb cutlets with black pudding and white bean braise; local mushroom pithivier with a walnut and pear salad; or crisp pork belly with fennel and white anchovies. All presented with a creativity and deftness of touch that allow the freshness and quality of the ingredients to shine.
Graeme Phillips, July 2007
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