The Source Restaurant, Moorilla Estate
Editorial
Moorilla Estate, perched on a promontory of the Derwent River 15 minutes north of Hobart, is the oldest vineyard/winery in Southern Tasmania. It produces outstanding wines, the cult Moo Brew beers, has eight ultra-luxurious waterfront tourist chalets and is due to open its free-to-the-public Museum of New and Old Art (MONA), which will house the largest private art collection in the country, early in 2011. The Source restaurant, named after a John Olssen painting displayed at the entrance, is a sweeping architectural statement in glass and metal commanding magnificent views of the river and mountains beyond. And it now has a chef whose food does justice to Moorilla’s driving concept of uncompromised excellence.
Australian-born Frenchman, Philippe Lebain, has brought his experiences in some of the top restaurants in Sydney, Shanghai and Paris to create menus like no others in the state. His dish of crab, crab jelly and corn custard served in a glass is an explosion of colour and flavour intensity, sitting in polar contrast to the ethereal texture and delicacy of a boudin blanc which comes simply presented on a round of tomato fondue spiked with pistou. Pink slivers of exquisitely tender duck breast come beautifully partnered by a caramelised trio of witlof, pureed apple and coffee sauce. Foie gras and seared tuna are a pas de deux in an impeccable red wine sauce. There’s an international selection of wines, the service is professionally attentive and the views great – but it’s really all about Lebain’s food.
Greame Phillips, June 2010
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