The Manse Restaurant
Editorial
The Manse restaurant is like an elegant, beautiful woman. You’ve heard a lot about her and know she is style personified. You think she is out of your league so make do with reading one sublime review after another, longing to experience her from afar. Surely a drive past her grounds are within your means? You feel honoured just to be reading her menu in the glass viewing cabinet on the footpath. You learn that on Saturday evenings a three-course fixed price format applies, but on weeknights there is an a la carte format and Friday lunches offer tasteful incentives. Her majestic presence becomes approachable, so you walk through her willow tree-lined entrance. It’s nice to see she’s not all old-school. You’ll find her warm charm within a chic attire of classic and contemporary. Her Victorian heritage houses high ceilings, chandeliers and open fireplaces with guilded mirrors. Designer black wallpaper offsets white walls and rose pink-rimmed flatware. What chef Ayhan Erkoc constructs on those plates transforms them into artwork set on linen-clad tables.
Erkoc is recognised for his nod to molecular gastronomy, but is known for respect shown to core ingredients. The main dish is planet earth while its foams, soils and dust orbit around it. This is expertly demonstrated in dishes like magret duck breast with chicory, garlic mousse and olive oil powder. Mayura Station Wagyu beef fillet is presented with white anchovy, zucchini flower and porcini soil. Desserts continue the perfection in a dark chocolate creme brulee with banana, smoked gel and coffee soil. Needless to say, The Manse’s cellar holds a wealth of dignified labels. The front of house staff have been industry awarded, along with Erkoc and his brigade, to make The Manse one of the most beautiful dinng experiences you are likely to have.
Roz Taylor, December 2008
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