Josie Bones
Editorial
Josie Bones doesn’t exactly wear its heart on its sleeve so much as displayed prominently behind the bar. The huge, almost pornographic print of a skinned rabbit carcass that hangs there embodies exactly half of what this bar is all about. The other half can be found in the 240-strong list of beers on offer. Meat and beer are the backbone of this niche eatery – a double obsession for Chris Badenoch, who owns and runs Josie Bones with fellow MasterChef alumnus Julia Jenkins. The space is neatly fitted out with a long wooden bar, seating along the opposite side and a large communal table at the back. The menu is geared towards snacking, although there is more substantial fare available and it is common for people to wander in to sample a beer or two and extend their stay for a full meal.
Whether snacking or dining, the concept works. A miniature Scotch egg with garlicky anchoïade dip; trotter fritters with romesco sauce; or the crackling of the day each make a superb accompaniment to an ale or two. Larger plates such as rolled pig’s head with creamy sauce gribiche and crackling; or grilled lambs tongue with spiced eggplant are perfect exponents of nose-to-tail eating. The pig’s trotter door handles may cause beer-loving vegetarians to keep walking, but there are some robust non-meaty offerings such as fluffy moghrabieh with mint, peas and preserved lemon; or zucchini flower stuffed with eggplant, whipped Persian fetta and smoked almonds, accompanying zucchini carpaccio.
Beer even features in desserts – Badenoch’s signature ‘beeramisu’ makes an appearance, as does blackberry and Guinness bombe Alaska. For those unsure about their beer matching skills when it comes to choosing between smoked beers, real ales, coffee beer, IPAs, fruit beers and much more, a dedicated beer master is on hand. There’s also a regularly alternating beer-flight that allows a range of otherwise expensive bottles to be enjoyed by many.
Dedicated to beasts and beer, Josie Bones may not suit all but will be loved by many for its superb range of brews and hearty approach to meat.
Angela Costanzo, March 2011
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