Sah Modern Mediterranean
Editorial
Thank goodness chef Alex Fry, decided to open his own restaurant. After time in Perth and Adelaide kitchens, he now enriches the dining scene of O’Connell Street with his lip-smacking Mediterranean-inspired dishes.
Yes, you may walk in here expecting pasta, but that pasta is all house made – his gnocchi is mixed with zucchini and peas, and tossed through pesto and a white wine sauce; fettuccine is topped with Aussie prawns and West Australian blue swimmer crab, and spiked with a tomato, chilli, and garlic sauce; and ravioli of confit duck, pumpkin, goat’s cheese and sage is subtly tied together with a butter sauce.
Fry is not short on words, and his food speaks volumes too. Fancy an entrée of warm, char-grilled quail salad with house-cured guanciale, red onion, fetta and rocket? What about mussels sautéed in garlic and creamy white wine sauce served over toasted ciabatta? And that is just for starters.
Past the pastas, there are many paellas - woven with fresh local prawns, mussels, cockles and scampi; plumped up with shaved pork belly, chorizo, chicken, and Jamon ham; or beautified with bountiful fresh vegies.
Fry continues to express his culinary experience through mains such as Moroccan chicken cooked with tomato, zucchini, almonds and the warmth of spices and apricots, before being bedded on couscous with a pistachio dukkah. Bravo.
In closing, you have a family man. 'Sah' stands for each member - the lady of the house, Sarah, Alex’s own name, and their young daughter Holly. If that doesn’t warm your heart, then the hazelnut Spanish doughnuts sprinkled with cinnamon sugar and more of that Ximenez dipping sauce is sure to.
Roz Taylor, March 2011
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