Hotel Tivoli
Editorial
You could be forgiven for spending time staring at the ceiling in this place. Rest assured it will not be because of a dull menu or boring company (heaven forbid), but the rather impressive domed roof. Known for being a grungy pub band haunt, its recent acquisition by hotel renovation maestro Piers Schmidt has rendered it into more dignified digs. If you have been to the Union Hotel, you will be familiar with the swank factor employed in Piers’ pubs. The Hotel Tivoli’s decor treats you to a gold-plated bar, divine retro wall-mounted lamps and two huge Asian-style light fixtures suspended from the afore-mentioned ceiling; which, by the way, is coated in shimmering gold paint. An upstairs mezzanine level is perfect for private soirees or those wanting to look down on diners below. The whole effect has a fabulous lofty New York feel. In between rubbernecking your glam surrounds, make sure you find time to look at the menu.
Chefs Kieren Mykyta and Steven Webster work a menu comprised of bar nibbles, pub plates and restaurant dishes. Restaurant manager Jessie will gladly let you order any dish from the menu whether you are in the main dining room or snazzy front bar. Nibbles are far from insignificant with Szechwan pepper-crusted squid, coriander and lime mayo. Pub plates boast a roasted duck and shiitake pie with wilted greens and a fig and apple chutney. If you’re up for a three-course sit-down dinner, you could do worse than house-made chicken liver parfait followed by risotto bouillabaisse brimming with mussels, clams, squid and blue swimmer crab. Desserts don’t go overboard with old-schoolers like passionfruit pav, and rhubarb and apple crumble.
Roz Taylor, February 2009
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