Celsius Restaurant & Bar
Editorial
On a rainy night in Adelaide's parklands a figure is seen crouching down, torch and bucket in hand, pawing though the greenery. Crazy man? A little perhaps, but also our state's Chef of The Year 2008, and now proprietor of his own restaurant, Celsius.
This evening, Ayhan Erkoc is searching for snails destined to star in his signature dish Vegetable Patch. They will be presented with 'soil' - raw and pickled vegetables, herbs and flowers, the latter of which Erkoc sources from his secret earthly spots around town. “I am a forager”, he confesses. At age 29, this young Turk can lay claim to being an awarded head chef at North Adelaide's famed Manse. He has also spent kitchen time in the world's best restaurant, Noma in Copenhagen, alongside chef Rene Redzepi, a fellow forager.
Erkoc's menu demonstrates his innovative yet sophisticated dishes. It is a contemporary mix of the molecular and classic techniques using produce he experiments with on his Turkish parents' property in Murray Bridge. He commences with 'dry snacks' of bubbled pork crackling with yoghurt and fennel pollen. Tastebuds start tingling with salt and vinegar chips accompanied by vinegar dipping foam. Entreés bring blue swimmer crab with almonds and some nasturtiums organically sourced from Waterfall Gully. Main plates procure Barossa Valley chicken with boudin noir (blood sausage) woven with yolk, walnut and milk skin. Black Angus fillet is served alongside potato, onion and ash cocooned under a transparent veil of horseradish jelly. For those who like to explore much of the menu, share plates feature Kingfish tartare with wasabi snow; citrus-cured ocean trout with olive liqourice; and a dish that brings the restaurant's name to mind - 62°c egg and bacon crumble.
Why 'Celsius'? 'It is what we are all about - temperature - the sous vide style of cooking' Erkoc explains. The forecast for Celsius? Hot.
Roz Taylor, October 2010
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