Art Gallery Restaurant
Editorial
Is there another restaurant in the country where you are greeted by Rodin sculptures? At executive chef Cath Kerry's digs in the Art Gallery of South Australia, you are afforded the timeless, sophisticated addiction of fine art and food - one in the same really. So after you have pondered the prints, studied the sculpture and debated the decorative art, critique Cath's seasonally depicted menu.
Her food is as well turned out as her loyal patrons - or vice versa. Diners range from the artistic equivalent of old masters to modern. Whatever your style, there is something about noshing in art galleries that instantly paints you as well cultured. While basking in this knowledge, disarmingly charming staff circulate, executing their business without a sniff of snootiness. This is a place of professional finesse and informality.
When appropriate, themed menus illustrate the flavour of current exhibitions. Regardless, you can expect them to be composed with dedicated consideration and intelligence. Each course is set-priced although a humble main of fish and hand-cut chips - shy of $30 - may cause slight indigestion.
Ultimately, this is a menu to love. It is also easy to feel artfully inspired in these surrounds. Suddenly the pair of inwardly curved asparagus spears on your plate become the claws of Absinthe's Dali-inspired green lobster. They guard a subtly pungent, parmesan panna cotta and outstanding tapenade. The tumble of amusingly long zucchini twirls dressing the duck, remind of the spiralling green tresses of John Perceval's Angel with Mandolin. The duck curry is partnered with spicy red lentils who are the boss of the dish with cracker power-punch flavour. At dessert, the triangular form of the iced cinnamon parfait will turn your thoughts to memories of the Louvre Pyramid. Magical stuff, art and food.
Roz Taylor, November 2010
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