Crosstown Eating House
Editorial
The array of art clustered on the walls of the Crosstown Eating House gives something of a hint to its basic philosophy. A large blue swordfish hangs over the downstairs bar, surrounded by paintings, art prints and distressed metal signs. The effect is eclectic, delightful, and above all, individual.
That is what the Crosstown is - unique. It's a one-of-a-kind project created by three men who wanted to create an informal dining experience that they themselves would enjoy. Matthew Howland, Matt Christensen and Benn Christensen made the place virtually from scratch. They built the furniture, structured the walls, and designed the menu and wine lists together. This gives the whole place a kind of defiant charm, and a hugely reassuring sensation of integrity.
Upstairs, a dark-panelled bar area offers cocktails, great beers and a small but strong wine list. Downstairs, where the eating takes place, there is a more relaxed feel - low on pretensions, high on honesty. The 'boutique pub'-style menu has an entertaining array of sharable starters, and a selection of good, homely meals. Corned beef, pork chops with mash - these are the foods which fuel the Crosstown. The sticky pork ribs are fantastic, satisfying in their juicy taste and rich dark sauce.
It is not fine-dining, but then it's not trying to be. It's refreshingly irreverent, a good, affordable place with genuine personality, which looks sure to become a much-loved staple of Woolloongabba dining for many years to come.
Aran Ward Sell, December 2010
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