Chives Restaurant
Editorial
When an upmarket, modern Asian restaurant like Chives in Upper Mount Gravatt manages to be constantly busy, investigation is warranted. Built around an amazing three-metre-long fish tank filled with neon tropical wonders, the tank glows like a beacon to the busy traffic of Logan Road. Guests can dine alfresco, in the fish tank-like front dining room, or in the large private dining room towards the back. The trimmings are resolutely upscale; white tablecloths, heavy cutlery and fine Reidel glassware accompany a menu that is decidedly Oriental. And this is where Chives has won its battle for the dining dollar. The menu is authentic. There is no half-hearted attempt at molecular gastronomy, but familiar flavours are presented in a manner that nurtures them and raises them to the pinnacle of ethnic poignancy. This is not your average Asian takeaway. The vegetables are crisp and fresh, the duck is complexly flavoured like only free-range birds are, and the crispy chicken dish is light and ethereally crisp on the outside while maintaining a succulent, moist texture on the inside.
Service is knowledgeable and attentive, which is once again eons away from the “get 'em in, get 'em out” mentality of some Asian establishments. And, finally, the wine list is well curated, with a vast selection of Australian white varietals which match well with the spice of Oriental cuisine, as well as a number of fuller bodied reds to go with the gamier menu items like duck and lamb. Selections from the celebrated Henske cellar are also kept on hand for those extra special occasions, like, perhaps, an anniversary, a birthday, a business lunch or, maybe tonight, simply to celebrate yourself and your expertly trained tastebuds.
Nicholas Wong, April 2009
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