Il Barocco, Palazzo Versace
Editorial
A seafood buffet could be difficult for a high-class hotel to get right. It would be all too easy for it to descend to an all-you-can-eat-joint level, tarring the good name of the establishment. Thankfully, Palazzo Versace doesn't do low-class. It doesn't even do difficult; it just delivers excellence with apparent ease.
Placed in competition to the Palazzo's almighty Vanitas, Il Barocco could be seen to have a tough task ahead of it. But in truth, that's comparing apples and oranges. Vanitas is one — magnificent, extravagant — type of experience, and Il Barocco is quite another. Il Barocco is fresh. It's for ordering Greek salads and cold seafood as a light yet satisfying seaside meal. It's for delighting in the taste of seafood that can remember the sea, while being placed only a matter of seconds away from it.
The bright lights of Surfers Paradise may be just a few minutes away, but Il Barocco is a lagoon — quite literally — away from all that bustle. It gives you simplicity in the best sense — simple recipes, simple décor, simple elegance. And it gives you class. Versace quality shines from the stone floor, the lighting, even the imported Versace cutlery.
Between the a la carte brilliance of Vanitas and the easy charm of Vie, it could legitimately be wondered whether there's even a need for a buffet option. But when you taste that salmon, or these oysters, or this Morton bay bug, you know that there is. And Il Barocco provides it.
Aran Ward Sell, March 2011
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