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Chefs Gallery

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Theatrical displays of artisan skill are the focus of at Chefs’ Gallery, where nimble fingers hand-make noodles in front of hungry eyes. Classic Chinese style dresses the Sydney CBD restaurant where modern dishes contrast with age-old antiques.

Editorial


Long, thick ropes of dough are kneaded, rolled, then picked up from the bench to be yanked and stretched. The heavy ends are joined together before clever wrist movements twist them together, before being wrenched and stretched again - the process repeating over and over until the heavy rope becomes hundreds of threads. These theatrical displays are performed in Sydney's newest dumpling house, Chefs' Gallery. Hungry eyes watch as the chefs theatrically whip and yank the golden threads, or meticulously press together doughy edges in strong concentration. Their eyes never look up from the work at hand as if we can see them but they can't see us.

The glorious knots of noodles may await a dollop of glossy soybean sauce that binds together finely minced pork and tiny cubes of tofu. Other knotted mounds are topped with chicken pieces glazed in a chilli-soy sauce that hides diced red capsicum, shallots and cheeky rings of sliced chilli. Some combed threads are dropped into a steaming broth of hot and sour soup, with dark shreds of fungus swimming between the tangled yarns. Beautiful inconsistencies in the form of ridges and bumps make no two noodles or mouthfuls the same.

Delicate pan-fried buns encase fatty pork mince that explodes with aromas once bitten through the spongy skin. These savoury pillows come in sugary desserts with the pink piglet steamed sesame buns looking so cute they're nearly inedible. The glossy white bun is the face of the cartoon-like piggies, complete with pink ears, snout and even a bow to make piglets pretty. Black sesame paste is nutty and sweet - expect yourself to crave them later on and regret that the Chefs' Gallery doesn't do takeaway.

Chefs' Gallery captivates the eyes and appetites of its diners with its glorious knots of noodles and plump, hand-made buns.

Edwina Storie, November 2010

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