Bellevue Hotel Restaurant
Editorial
The Bellevue Hotel is a smart place for the smart-minded foodie. Artisan contemporary botanical prints splash the walls, and the sun beating through the ceiling glass is cleverly deflected by oyster-coloured sails, so that unattractive squinting is kept to a minimum. The kitchen's warm fresh aromas make it difficult focus on anything else but ordering.
Damien Pignolet has overseen the creation of this creamy, dreamy early 19th Century-style dining space with impeccable taste and delicacy. The menu hits a Parisian-style jugular with no unnecessary fuss or fusion. A starter of chicken liver pate with sour cherries and sourdough toast worked well on the palate and paved the way for a Bellevue classic of melt-in-your-mouth beef and pork sausages with onion gravy, mashed potatoes and beetroot relish.
The house classic is the corned wagyu silverside with white sauce, cabbage, carrots and mashed potatoes. This charming French-influenced menu embodies a bechamel heaven, yet the fresh crispiness of the food is a large step up and away from typical pub-grub that attempts flair. Switched on service staff are both genuine and friendly. Sunday bests and ever-changing seasonal themes have kept diners comfortable in this refined Paddington institution for years. The kitchen is helmed by passionate head chef Hamish Gilbert (of Bistro Moncur and formerly of Claude's). Bon appetit!
Scott Winter, August 2010
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