The Battery
Editorial
Taste a true fish and chips revival at the Battery Restaurant in Surry Hills, where chef Paul McMahon has successfully sexed up the age-old duo.
Catch of the day is at the Battery on Bourke Street, Surry Hills. What a relief to discover excellent quality seafood, crustaceans and fresh fish at reasonably near market prices especially in Sydney, where our great 'fruits of the sea' often come with great white tablecloth price tags. The good old marriage between fish and chips was developed in the post and pre war slums of East London and was considered, back then, a gourmet dish for the lower working classes.
Since then, fish and chips have pretty much maintained its deep-fried, low quality reputation. Many have attempted to glam up the popular duo and many have failed to take gourmet-style fish and chips into the mainstream….until now. Chef Paul McMahon of the award-winning Catalina Restaurant in Rose Bay has successfully 'sexed up' the traditional dish, which you can now enjoy in a stylish and relaxed setting instead of a tacky take-away restaurant. As you enter the restaurant you are hit with an applause of aromas, and a menu that keeps to Paul's reassuringly high standards.
Diners can choose from a daily selection of fresh fish, cooked the way they choose for both lunch and dinner. In addition, each type of fish comes with valuable cooking suggestions from the chef. The Battery's fish is delicate, full flavoured and its namesake batter is light yet crispy. A full range of salads complement the fish, as do the hand-cut chips. Try the crispy school prawns with aioli and lemon. The chickpea chips are as deliciously different and guilt-free as the spice crusted parsnips with tartare.
Scott Winter, August 2010
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