Welcome Hotel, The
Editorial
A spotted dog on a vintage wooden sign greets guests and informs them that The Welcome Hotel, which shares leafy Evans Street with a neat and colourful array of terrace homes, has been around since 1877. And yet while presenting its classically (and proudly) Irish bar as the first point of contact; a much less antique mein is offered by its restaurant. Sticking to simple decor, the dining space combines dark brown chairs and tables with a collection of gleaming forks, knives, napkins and wine glasses to give the impression of a place that knows a thing or two about fine cuisine. The alfresco terrace area, which sits slightly hidden from the dining room, creates a pleasant, unpretentious and fern-studded atmosphere.
Also unlike the structure that houses it, the dishes on the modern European menu are never around for very long. They arise from the inspiration and whims of each season, but usually only make an appearance for three months. Occasionally, though rarely, a popular dish earns a longer stay on the menu. However it is worthwhile to taste this season's tempting entrees like oxtail and pearl barley soup, appetising mains like roast chicken breast stuffed with cinnamon ricotta, shaved courgette and pine nut salad and drool-worthy desserts like warm walnut and currant pudding with walnut praline semifreddo and butterscotch sauce, before Australia's infamous hot weather (and the produce it inspires) chases them off the menu. Although the replacements are pretty much guaranteed to be equally delectable. And while there is a very expansive wine list which reaches as far as Europe and the USA, it is hard to go past a hearty Irish beer, and The Welcome Hotel offers plenty on tap…after all, when in Dublin…
Agnes Gajewska, August 2009
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