The Four In Hand Hotel Restaurant
Editorial
Something has changed with the mood of dining over the past few years; a casually elegant standard has arisen that caters to diners who enjoy fine food and wine and exceptional service. Four in Hand has captured this need with effortless grace, and stands as a leader of the new dining style. dark timber chairs, crisp white table cloths and a dramatic black and white squid painting that overlooks diners.
Having trained under Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons, the cuisine of chef Colin Fassnidge is French bistro style with a contemporary twist. The favourite ingredient of both the chef and his diners is pork as proven by the most popular dish; suckling pig with red peppers, white anchovy, beans and ham hock. Fassnidge expresses his passion for the ingredient by wasting as little as possible. He is well known for incorporating a suckling pig's bones to add flavour to dishes and serving pig's ear in an entrée with crab and roast corn salad and ginger jelly.
Another creative and flavoursome creation is the braised beef and bone marrow which is baked and served in the bone with celeriac remoulade on the side. For those who steer away from pork the roasted jewfish with salt cod purée, mussels and leeks has gentle flavours and soft textures. A hearty meal is best balanced by a rich dessert such as the malted chocolate delice with salted caramel, and matched with NV Romate Pedro Ximenez Cardenal Cisneros sherry from Jerez, Spain.
Four in Hand deserves its accolades for its rich flavours served in an atmosphere of comfortable ease.
Edwina Storie, September 2010
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