Avido Restaurant and Wine Garden
Editorial
Amidst the tailored trends and artistic attitude of Oxford Street is a secret courtyard down the back of Avido Wine Bar that embodies urban-barbecue cool. White outdoor table sets flank a wooden banquette and the smoky scent of hot coals sizzles in a huge circular barbecue. On this summer lunch, a whole suckling pick is roasting, its skin crisping and caramelising over the embers. Overhanging vines scatter sunlight in this wine garden that has the atmosphere of a friend's relaxed backyard party. The grill, however, is manned by chef Jamie Thomas (formerly of the UK's St John Restaurant) and there is also a 50-strong wine list.
Inside, Avido is reminiscent of a New York wine bar with rustic exposed brick walls hinting at the building's history, and tangles of black rope draping across the high ceiling, that cast webbed shadows over the floor. Huge black frames mounted with rows of wine bottles glow with a heavenly rim of light that herald the restaurant's passion. It is mostly international drops available by the glass and Australian wines to be enjoyed by the bottle.
As we sip on 2009 Domaine Joseph Cattin pinot blanc from the French region of Alsace, we are presented with a plate of house-cured ocean trout served amongst a bright fennel and orange salad, given a flirtatious edge with Campari salt. A ricotta and mushroom mixture is encased within the delicate golden petals of tempura zucchini flowers, accompanied by black truffle salsa. As our palate moves to Mendoza, Argentina with the 2008 Argento malbec, the flesh of slow-cooked spiced lamb neck tears apart between Jeruslem artichokes, heirloom carrots, fresh peas and mint. Lemon zest and chilli add bright notes to the summer risotto stained with tomatoes, laced with basil leaves and topped with succulent white chunks of Queensland spanner crab and plump prawns. The warm season continues to float through the courses with buttermilk pannacotta dressed in sunny flavours of pineapple, mango, strawberries and mint leaves.
Whether indoors or out, Avido is an effortless choice for reliable drops and comforting food at prices less typical to fellow Eastern Suburb areas.
Edwina Storie, December 2010
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