Ventuno
Editorial
With an unassuming entrance that fashionably labels rather than announces its presence, there's nothing imposing about Ventuno; although some might disagree after noting the prices accompanying the wine list. However, this is the one blow-out selection on a menu which offers classic Italian fare with a contemporary twist that doesn't tug at the purse-strings. Polenta seems to have made its way off menus in recent times but it finds its way back here with sausage ragu, along with pizzas dressed in rugged cheeses and fresh meats, braised octopus and potatoes, and pasta in a pear, cream, walnut and gorgonzola sauce (which is perfect for ruining any diet).
Opened in February 2007, this Millers Point venue might have foreshadowed the bar-sitting culture that has since engulfed Sydney. A robust tabletop and obliging bartenders hardly encourage you to turn away to the gorgeous view of Walsh Bay even after you've bought a drink. In fact, loitering at the bar becomes positively de rigueur after-hours as the music is turned up and antipasto platters of meat-filled arancini, calamari and delicious roasted eggplant melanzane give way to cocktail blends such as white peach nectar, limoncello, rhubarb and amaretto liqueur. An outdoor dining area right on the water is as enticing in winter as it is in summer, and with a vibe this grown up, Ventuno, or “twenty-one”, has first dates and people-filled functions all sewn up. Off-the-cuff walk-ins beware - you probably won't get a table without a booking on weekend nights.
Ilona Marchetta, September 2008
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