Manly Pavilion
Editorial
Manly Pavilion lounges on Federation Point in casual sophistication and hatted style. Named the Best New Restaurant 2010 by The Good Food Guide, the newcomer is set only for success. The heritage listed building has been rejuvenated to its original grandeur with a sleek new edge by well-known Squillace Nicholas Architects. Inspiration drawn from its 1930s design and the modern fashion of the menu, harmonised through organic Queensland black walnut timber, Italian marble terrazzo, riverstone speckled flooring, and dark leather banquettes. While historic influences characterise Manly Pavilion, the restaurant boasts a timeless asset - the shimmering waterfront view.
Up and coming chef Jonathan Barthelmess has incorporated his Greek and Italian influences into the menu that proves his passion through extensive preparation. Along with James Parry, a former Josephine Pignolet Best Young Chef, the pair constantly work to refine each recipe to perfection. Their dedication can be tasted in the complex yet complementary flavours of each and every dish that come together naturally, proving their expertise.
For entree try the scampi with celery ragu and bagna cauda to start the course with light oceanic flavours. Pasta mains with rich meats such as pork and pancetta are cooked delicately to balance the characters of the dishes. Wild boar ragu ribbons through pappardelle pasta with a hint of mascarpone richness. The grilled jewfish is served on a bed of spinach with a light and frothy avgolemono. The white meat soaks up the faint notes of lemon as it flakes while being cut up. Classic Italian flavours run through the desserts that are each presented with artistic elegance. The blood orange is served alongside sorbet and jelly, and served on a bed of citrus curd; the sour characters contrasting with the sweetness of the dish.
Despite the extensive preparation behind each dish, they come together with natural style allowing the flavours of each course to effortlessly carry over to the next. Manly Pavilion creates new standards of waterside dining, serving the finest of flavours in classical elegance.
Edwina Storie, September 2010
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