Le Kiosk
Editorial
An experience at Le Kiosk has a similar feeling to that refreshing rise from an ocean swim; clean, crisp and revitalising. Le Kiosk sits quietly on Shelly Beach with a private view to Manly's heart in the distance, and the whispers of the lapping waves in the background.
The restaurant received a rejuvenation when new owners Kelly and John Hearn took over in early 2010. Once an old fisherman's cottage, the building has new life breathed into the decor and fittings, and a new chef and menu to match. The sandstone structure bathes in natural light that flows through the large windows. In wintertime, the fireplace is lit and diners watch storms roll in over the ocean while indulging in apple tarte tatin served with creme fraiche and butter soft caramel. Come the summer months, cushions line ledges at the front of the restaurant so bathers sit back and enjoy a glass of white wine and shoestring fries with rosemary salt.
The menu is a fusion of French and Asian flavours. For entree the tempura oysters arrive on a bed of clean white rock salt. The light batter of the oysters does not detract from the ocean characters, and the accompanying tartar is highlighted by bright lime bursts of aioli. The grilled whole baby snapper is a generous main served with zucchini piperade that has harmonious flavours of lemongrass, Thai basil and lime. The serving of coconut milk infused with a touch of spice is to be drizzled over the dish at the diner's will. A sip of the Tar & Roses pinot gris sends a flirty bite along the tongue and cools off in a soft floral finish.
For a richer meal try the crispy-skinned duck breast with blue cheese and parsnip gnocchi complemented with a foie gras jus. Classic desserts are presented with elegance. The trio of creme brulee in vanilla bean, dark chocolate and butterscotch caramel is a simple yet timeless dish with warm comforting flavours.
The surrounding sand, ocean and greenery give Le Kiosk a calm atmosphere secluded from the traffic of the town.
Edwina Storie, September 2010
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