Lotforty
Editorial
In recent times, the streets of Sydney have exploded with small wine bars and tapas restaurants - intimate, atmospheric pockets of good food, wine and conversation. Lotforty is one of the places that rocketed into a shy laneway in the armpit of Darlinghurst, charming diners with its personality.
Part of this restaurant's appeal is its unexpected, sheltered location. Another part is its ambience - two levels of warm tones, casual furniture, dim lighting and staff bursting with ready smiles. Lotforty is the sort of place where sneakers and jeans mix with high heels, Italian leather boots and designer outfits to a soundtrack of chatter and laughter. It's one-size-fits-all and it's glorious.
But personality isn't everything; the dining public - educated on the virtues of good food by celebrity chefs - expects restaurants to deliver. For this reason, it's lucky that Lotforty has Kelly Pakdeewarn in the open kitchen. If you sit downstairs you can watch as she breaks the time-space continuum to whip out dishes for the entire restaurant.
The menu is of the share-plate variety and you can either pick a few dishes yourself or trust Kelly with a chef's selection. If you decide to go it alone, don't miss out on the duck crepes - little roulades of soft, doughy crepe which melt into more robust plum-sauce and duck flavours. Equally, seafood dishes - whether squid, half-shell scallops or king prawns - are particularly well executed.
The beverage menu, which covers a decent selection of wine (including a $5 wine of the week) also tempts with classic and signature cocktails (“Pure Arrogance”, anyone?) and jugs of sangria. One more piece of advice: do not skip dessert, even if you're not a dessert person. The nutty flourless chocolate almond cake will convert you (and get you completely addicted) with one spoonful.
Agnes Gajewska, July 2010
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