Koi at Darlinghurst
Editorial
The former shell of Paddington’s treasured Vietnamese restaurant Phamish has taken on a new identity in the form of Koi. Dishing up all the traditional Japanese favourites, with a few surprising twists, this restaurant is set to become the eastern suburbs’ next beloved local. Preserving Phamish’s coveted yawning windows, the space has been rejuvenated with a fresh slick of paint and greystone serving counter, with giant bubble-blowing fish breathing life into the restaurant’s exterior. Dark wooden cubes form surprisingly comfortable resting spots, as diners peer out and watch the Paddington nightlife roll on by. Opened in November 2008, Koi’s philosophy of beautiful simplicity is certainly winning over the locals – as the neighbourhood pets waiting patiently outside indicate.
Start with deliciously fresh tempura oysters, which are enlivened with a white miso and mustard sauce, or come clad in a white radish and ponzu dressing, accompanied by a zesty lemon and ginger jelly. The signature sushi and sashimi combo features a beautifully presented selection of 17 fresh catches, making it one of the restaurant’s most popular repasts. Creative fusions of east and west culminate in mains such as the grilled wedge of seabass saikyo-yaki served with a mixed salad and orange sauce, or tender pork kakuni and white radish dressed in an apple mustard dressing. Take advantage of Koi’s BYO policy and bring along a bottle or two, keeping in mind that the restaurant doesn’t take bookings although large groups are encouraged to phone ahead. One of the few restaurants in the area open on a Monday evening, Koi’s simple yet beautifully presented dishes show the emphasis here is on fresh, quality produce.
Lauren Barker, February 2009
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