The Italian
Editorial
Simple dining tables and a small selection of homeland paraphernalia are all that adorn The Italian's fuss-free dining space. Here, it's home-style fare and friendly service that are the focus of the much-loved Bondi haunt, which attracts diners keen for authentic bolognese and veal scallopini.
Husband-and-wife duo Paul and Mary have married their Italian heritage with a savvy for local Aussie produce at their family-run diner. At first glance the space may seem basic, but it's this very no-frills attitude that has awarded The Italian such a loyal local following.
Paul heads up the busy kitchen, dishing out his mother's recipes. The selection of pastas are hand made on-site, including gnocchi, veal ravioli and fettucine, which diners pair with a made-to-order sauce of choice - a favourite is the 'bassaro' with imported Italian sausage, porcini mushrooms, fresh basil and sage, finished with a dash of cream. The suburb's namesake pizza - The Bondi - celebrates its tropical locale: a thin crust base topped with four cheeses, pineapple, brown mushrooms and parsley. Old-school scallopini is hard to go past, made using Northern Rivers milk-fed veal, while kids can tuck into a cotoletta - crunchy, breaded veal cutlets - just like Nonna makes them. Sicilian specialties also feature - try the regional version of fried arrancini risotto balls with veal mince, peas and mozzarella, or for sweet tooths the cannoli alongside an extra-strong espresso, served traditionally with a sweetened ricotta filling.
Visit The Italian not for cheesy foreign memorabilia or mass-produced, would-be Italian dishes - this is a restaurant where locals' opinions matter and warm service exudes the familiarity of real-life relatives.
Alecia Wood, September 2010
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