Dukes Lane
Editorial
Taste and affordability have found a nice melting pot at Balmain’s intimate two-level restaurant, Dukes Lane. Taking over where modern European restaurant Sojourn left off, the eatery is continuing to produce high-quality, fresh, seasonal modern European cuisine at prices that won’t burn holes in your pockets. Former Soujourn chef, Paul Camilleri, is still banging the pots but this time to a tune focused on simplicity. The interiors have also seen a change under the expert eye of Leah Russo (of Becasse fame) resulting in smart, modern decor that makes the most of the cottage’s heritage-listed features.
The menu also presents a great balance between style and accessibility with dishes that change several times per season and display what’s fresh. Summer selections include entrees like sashimi of fresh Western Australian snapper and scallop with Iberico Jamon, fried capers, crisp shallot and baby roquette, as well as the delightful homemade duck parfait with duck rillette, smoked duck breast and pickled vegetables. A short mains list includes dishes like pan-fried dory fillets with potato scallops, fried squid, sauce gribiche and watercress and milk-fed veal cutlet crumbed with parsley and parmesan with fresh peas and lemon vinaigrette. For a sweet taste of Europe, Dukes Lane offers selections like a refreshing salad of pineapple, lychee and mint with coconut jelly, orange sorbet and crushed meringue and (for the chocoholics) a chocolate tart with praline ice-cream and chocolate sauce. If you’d like to treat yourself, try the five-course tasting menu to get a full appreciation of the flavours and textures of Paul’s cuisine. And don’t forget to dip into the wine list – it offers a sophisticated international selection that matches the dining experience.
Agnes Gajewska, December 2009
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