Juliet asked Romeo: what’s in a name? Apparently something, as the owners of this quirky restaurant christened it after their childhood speedboat. Owners Bronwen and David Drover set up JusQytly less than a year ago in the new M Centre in Manuka, with son Chris manning the stoves along with Sean Jarrett. The two bring their travels into the kitchen, dubbing their cuisine Euro-Thai fusion although the fusion occurs between the dishes and not so much on the plate. Diners choose from a diverse menu where Royal Thai red curry and cauliflower sage semolina gnocchi co-exist happily like a utopian political metaphor.
The eggnet of spanner crab meat is something special, the omelette-like net hugging the crab flesh along with Vietnamese mint and red nam jim and served with garlic chips. Fish and chips becomes beer battered reef snapper with hand-cut, twice-cooked potatoes, just don’t tell your cardiologist. Moreton Bay bugs are basted in galangal and piled on green pawpaw salad with a piquant tamarind dipping sauce. A “wine of the month” $6 per glass special encourages patrons to step outside their drinking habits. Clearly this restaurant is pitching high, asking for a game audience who will try something new. If the Canberra dining scene is ready for it, it could be something to watch.
Sarah Theeboom, April 2007