Mezzalira Restaurant
Editorial
It isn't hard to find Italian restaurants in Canberra. Nor is it very difficult to find good Italian restaurants in Canberra. But to find a fantastic Italian restaurant, in the centre of town no less, is certainly a rare treat. Holding court in the corner of the Melbourne Building, where any restaurant would have some fierce competition from neighbours in this self-proclaimed food-strip, Mezzalira stands proud. Floor to ceiling glass windows spill cheerful light out onto the street at night, while the smells of cucine rustica waft through an open door. This restaurant is hardly a well-kept secret, but Mezzalira also does a roaring trade in political dinners - expect Nelson or Turnbull to be debriefing here after this year's Budget.
Political beliefs aside, all come to Mezzalira for one thing and one thing alone; quite possibly Canberra's best Italian food. Mezzalira has an extensive wine list that is a must-read, although the helpful wait-staff seem to know exactly which wine best complements the chef's masterpieces. The five-course tasting menu (which is hard to go past - and fabulous value for $80) has wines already matched up for your dining pleasure. Of course, one should be encouraged to try a little bit of everything, although sharing becomes quite difficult when fighting over the last ostriche alla veneziana (fresh rock oysters with pickled cucumber vinaigrette and salmon roe) or fiore di zucchine (zucchini flowers filled with ricotta and spinach). The menu also draws on some regional Italian favourites, such as pizza or risotto with gamey Tuscan flavours. Mezzalira is proud of its heritage, and that definitely shows in their heavy use of imported ingredients, melded with local produce to create the ultimate in cucine rustica.
Russell Buzby, May 2008
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