Pulp Kitchen
Editorial
The ethos behind Pulp Kitchen is to find the culinary beauty inherent in simplicity. As chef Christian Hauberg contends, the cheap, mass-produced paper of the airport paperback can still bear the words of a memorable reading experience, or classic novel. If this is true, then Hauberg must surely be Canberra's Camus, collecting traditional ideas and ingredients, and producing a classic - yet simultaneously inspiring - masterpiece. Pulp Kitchen has a warm and cosy atmosphere despite seeming sparse inside. It's all sharp lines and classique European bistro vibe, thankfully sans red-and-white chequered tablecloths. A simple blackboard announces the daily specials, while quietly efficient service, understated artwork and simple furnishings allow the food to take pride-of-place as the main protagonist.
On a dark and stormy night, there are few better places to be than inside Pulp Kitchen, staring through the cold glass wall at the winter outside. The menu is simple and to the point. Hauberg, who has studied under Dietmar Sawyere (at Forty One in Sydney) and worked at the prestigious L'Esperance in Saint-Pere-sous-Vezelay, knows the value of honesty in crafting his menus. Major dining themes include a seasonal menu featuring culinary delights such as the sweet corn and basil soup served with goat's curd crostini, peppered lamb sweet breads with mushroom and asparagus risotto, or pan-roasted calf liver served with potatoes sauteed in bacon and onion. Other motifs include many vegetarian and gluten-free dishes. I won't spoil the twist at the end, but it definitely involves the delightful banana tarte tatin with clove ice-cream. Under the watchful eye of Hauberg, Pulp Kitchen's characters are constantly evolving, so be sure to come back and enjoy his sequel adventures. Pulp Kitchen is located in the middle of the Ainslie shops.
Russell Buzby, May 2009
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Nicole
June 07, 2010
Really fantastic food, shame about the culture. $5 corkage per bottle is a bit offensive and when charged per person at the table (not per drinker) ended up an obscene amount for a large group. Over $40 in corkage meant that the staff recieved zero tip and I won't be back.
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